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What is the difference between end bonds and side bonds in hair?

Published in Hair Chemistry 5 mins read

The fundamental difference between end bonds and side bonds in hair lies in their structure and function: end bonds form the long polypeptide chains that make up hair's protein, while side bonds cross-link these chains, giving hair its ultimate shape, strength, and elasticity. Both types of chemical bonds are crucial for the incredible strength and resilience of human hair, holding it in its natural shape and forming its fibers and structure.

Understanding Hair's Chemical Foundation

Hair is primarily composed of keratin, a protein built from long chains of amino acids. These amino acids are linked together by chemical bonds, which are categorized into two main types: end bonds and side bonds. Together, they create the complex architecture that dictates hair's appearance and properties.

End Bonds (Peptide Bonds)

End bonds, also known as peptide bonds, are the primary chemical links that connect individual amino acids to form long polypeptide chains. Think of amino acids as individual beads and end bonds as the string connecting them to create a long necklace.

  • Function: These bonds form the backbone of the hair's protein structure, essentially building the long molecular chains that make up the hair fiber. Without end bonds, there would be no protein chains, and thus no hair.
  • Strength: End bonds are strong covalent bonds, meaning they are very stable and not easily broken by water, heat, or mild chemical agents. Extreme chemical processes (like strong alkaline solutions) or very high heat (above 350°F / 175°C) can potentially damage them, leading to significant hair degradation.
  • Impact on Hair: They are fundamental to the existence and structural integrity of each individual hair strand.

Side Bonds

Side bonds are the cross-links that connect the individual polypeptide chains to each other, creating the hair's overall structure, strength, and elasticity. If end bonds are the "string" of one necklace, side bonds are what tie multiple necklaces together to form a larger, more intricate structure. There are three main types of side bonds:

  1. Hydrogen Bonds:

    • Nature: These are weak physical bonds that are easily broken by water (wetting the hair) or heat (blow-drying).
    • Impact: When hydrogen bonds break, hair becomes more pliable, allowing for temporary styling changes (e.g., setting wet hair into curls). As hair dries and cools, these bonds reform, holding the new shape until the hair gets wet again.
    • Frequency: They are the most numerous of the side bonds, accounting for about one-third of the hair's strength.
  2. Salt Bonds:

    • Nature: Also weak physical bonds, salt bonds are broken by changes in pH (acidity or alkalinity).
    • Impact: They contribute about one-third of the hair's strength. Like hydrogen bonds, they reform easily when the pH balance is restored, making them important for temporary styling and maintaining hair's natural balance.
  3. Disulfide Bonds (S-S Bonds):

    • Nature: These are strong chemical bonds, specifically covalent bonds, formed between two sulfur atoms in amino acids called cysteine.
    • Impact: Disulfide bonds are responsible for about one-third of the hair's strength and are crucial for determining the hair's natural curl pattern, wave, or straightness. They are not broken by water or heat alone but require strong chemical treatments to be altered.
    • Chemical Services:
      • Perms (Permanent Waves): Chemicals are used to break disulfide bonds, allowing hair to be reshaped around rods, and then new disulfide bonds are formed to permanently set the new curl pattern.
      • Relaxers: Strong alkaline chemicals break disulfide bonds, allowing the hair to be straightened, and then they are reformed in a new, straight configuration.

Comparison Table: End Bonds vs. Side Bonds

To clearly illustrate their distinctions, here's a comparative overview:

Feature End Bonds (Peptide Bonds) Side Bonds
Primary Function Connect amino acids to form long polypeptide chains (hair's backbone) Cross-link polypeptide chains, giving hair its shape, strength, and elasticity
Bond Type Covalent (very strong chemical bond) Hydrogen (weak physical), Salt (weak physical), Disulfide (strong chemical)
Impact on Hair Forms the fundamental protein structure of hair Determines hair's natural wave pattern, strength, and resilience; allows for temporary and permanent styling changes
How They Break Extreme chemical processes or very high heat (>350°F/175°C) Hydrogen: Water, heat
Salt: Changes in pH
Disulfide: Strong chemical agents (perms, relaxers)
How They Reform Do not typically reform if broken (damage is often permanent) Hydrogen: Drying, cooling
Salt: Restoring pH
Disulfide: Chemical neutralizers (perms, relaxers)
Contribution to Hair Essential for the existence of the hair protein itself Account for hair's ability to be styled, stretched, and resist breakage

Practical Insights

Understanding end and side bonds is critical in hair care and styling:

  • Temporary Styling: When you blow-dry or flat iron your hair, you are temporarily breaking and reforming hydrogen bonds, which accounts for the temporary change in texture.
  • Chemical Treatments: Services like perms, relaxers, and even some coloring processes directly target and alter disulfide bonds. This is why proper application and aftercare are essential to prevent damage and maintain hair health. Over-processing can lead to irreversible damage to these strong bonds, compromising hair integrity.
  • Hair Health: A balanced approach to styling and chemical treatments, along with good conditioning, helps maintain the integrity of both end and side bonds, leading to stronger, healthier, and more manageable hair.

For more information on hair chemistry, you can explore resources on the structure of hair or protein structure.