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How to check Seiko watch?

Published in Seiko Watch Verification 6 mins read

To check a Seiko watch, you need to verify its authenticity, assess its physical condition, and ensure its functionality. This involves scrutinizing specific details, from engraved numbers to the movement's performance, to confirm it's a genuine timepiece and in good working order.

How to Check a Seiko Watch?

Checking a Seiko watch involves a multi-faceted approach, focusing on authenticity verification and condition assessment. Whether you're purchasing a new watch, a pre-owned model, or simply want to ensure your existing timepiece is genuine and functioning correctly, paying attention to specific details is key.

1. Verifying Authenticity

The primary concern for many is distinguishing a genuine Seiko from a counterfeit. Here's how to do it:

a. Examine Serial and Model Numbers

Every genuine Seiko watch features a unique serial number and model number engraved on its case back. This is a critical indicator of authenticity.

  • Locate the Numbers: Find these numbers clearly etched into the metal of the watch's case back.
  • Significance: Counterfeit Seiko watches often lack serial numbers or display fake, inconsistent, or poorly engraved ones. Genuine engravings are typically crisp, precise, and evenly spaced.
  • Cross-Reference: Once you've identified the serial and model numbers (e.g., 7S26-0020 for a specific Seiko diver or a six-digit serial indicating the production date), you can cross-reference them with databases or reputable online resources. The first two digits of the serial number often indicate the year and month of manufacture. You can also compare the model number to official Seiko product catalogs or Seiko's global website to ensure it corresponds to an actual Seiko model.

b. Inspect the Dial and Markers

The watch's face, or dial, reveals a lot about its authenticity.

  • Logo and Text: The "Seiko" logo and any other text (e.g., "Automatic," "Diver's 200m") should be perfectly printed, sharp, and correctly aligned. Look for blurry edges, inconsistent font sizes, or misspellings.
  • Applied Indices/Markers: If the watch has applied hour markers (not printed), they should be precisely aligned with the minute track and evenly spaced.
  • Luminescence (Lume): Genuine Seiko watches, especially divers, are known for their strong and long-lasting LumiBrite. Test the lume by exposing the watch to a light source, then checking its glow in the dark. Fake watches often have weak, uneven, or quickly fading lume.

c. Check the Case Back Engravings

Beyond the serial and model numbers, observe other engravings on the case back.

  • Quality and Clarity: All engravings, including the Seiko "tsunami wave" logo (common on divers), water resistance ratings, and movement type (e.g., "AUTOMATIC," "KINETIC"), should be sharp, deep, and consistent.
  • Consistency: Ensure the information on the case back matches the watch's model and specifications.

d. Examine the Crown and Pushers

  • Seiko Logo: Many modern Seiko watches feature an engraved "S" or "Prospex" logo on the crown. This engraving should be clear and well-defined.
  • Operation: The crown should operate smoothly when winding (if applicable) and setting the time/date, with distinct clicks. Pushers (for chronographs) should also feel solid and responsive.

e. Assess the Bracelet/Strap and Clasp

  • Quality: Genuine Seiko bracelets are typically solid, well-finished, and have smooth edges. Check for rough finishes, thin or flimsy links, or poor construction.
  • Clasp: The clasp should operate securely and often features a clear "Seiko" or "Seiko Prospex" engraving. Look for crisp engraving and solid construction.
  • End Links: On bracelets, the end links (where the bracelet connects to the case) should fit snugly without excessive gaps.

f. Feel and Weight

Genuine Seiko watches, especially mechanical models, often have a substantial feel and appropriate weight due due to their quality materials and robust movements. Counterfeits can feel noticeably lighter or cheaper.

g. Packaging and Documentation

While not foolproof (as these can also be faked), original packaging, user manuals, and warranty cards can offer additional assurance. Look for high-quality printing, correct model information, and consistent branding.

2. Assessing General Condition

Beyond authenticity, checking the watch's physical condition is crucial, especially for pre-owned pieces.

  • Crystal: Inspect the crystal for scratches, chips, or cracks. A genuine Seiko might use Hardlex or Sapphire crystal, known for scratch resistance.
  • Case and Bezel: Look for dings, dents, deep scratches, or signs of heavy wear. If it has a rotating bezel (like on diver watches), ensure it clicks firmly and aligns correctly.
  • Hands: Check for any corrosion, bending, or misalignment of the hour, minute, and second hands.
  • Lume: Re-check the lume application on the hands and markers for uniformity and brightness.

3. Checking Movement and Functionality

The heart of any watch is its movement.

  • Timekeeping Accuracy: Over a 24-hour period, compare the watch's time against a reliable source (like an atomic clock app). Mechanical watches will have a variance, but excessive gain or loss (e.g., more than +/- 30 seconds per day for a standard automatic) might indicate a need for service.
  • Winding and Setting: The crown should turn smoothly for winding (if manual or automatic with hand-winding) and when setting the time and date. There should be clear positions for each function.
  • Complications: If the watch has complications (date, day, chronograph, GMT, etc.), ensure they function correctly. For example, the date should "change over" cleanly around midnight.
  • Power Reserve: For automatic or manual-wind watches, wind it fully and note how long it runs before stopping. Compare this to the manufacturer's stated power reserve.
  • Rotor Sound (Automatics): For automatic movements, gently shake the watch near your ear. You should hear a smooth, quiet whirring sound of the rotor spinning. Excessive rattling could indicate an issue.

4. Quick Reference Checklist

Here’s a summary checklist for verifying a Seiko watch:

Feature Genuine Seiko Characteristics Watch Out For (Potential Red Flags)
Serial/Model # Unique, crisp, deep engravings on case back. Missing, fake, blurry, or inconsistent numbers.
Dial & Text Sharp printing, correct font, perfectly aligned markers. Blurry text, misspellings, misaligned markers, poor finish.
Lume Bright, even, long-lasting glow (especially on divers). Weak, uneven, quickly fading, or non-existent lume.
Case Back Clear engravings (logo, specs), consistent finish. Poorly etched, shallow, or incorrect engravings.
Crown Often "S" or "Prospex" logo (modern), smooth operation. Missing logo, rough operation, loose feel.
Bracelet/Strap Solid links, well-finished edges, quality clasp with logo. Flimsy links, rough edges, poor clasp, incorrect branding.
Weight/Feel Substantial, solid feel, well-balanced. Noticeably light, cheap, or hollow feel.
Timekeeping Reasonable accuracy (varies by movement, e.g., +/- 30s/day). Significant gain/loss (minutes per day), inconsistent timekeeping.
Crystal Clear, free from deep scratches/chips. Heavy scratching, chips, poor clarity.

By systematically going through these checks, you can confidently assess the authenticity and condition of any Seiko watch.