A tailor's ham is typically filled with dense materials like sawdust or tightly packed pieces of scrap fabric to provide a firm, heat-retaining surface essential for shaping garments during pressing.
Understanding the Tailor's Ham
A tailor's ham is a fundamental pressing tool in sewing and garment construction. Its distinctive, roughly ham-like shape allows sewers to press curved seams and darts, creating a smooth, professional finish that would be impossible on a flat ironing board. This tool is instrumental in shaping areas like bust darts, sleeve caps, collars, and curved hems, accommodating the natural contours of the body.
The Core: What Fills a Tailor's Ham?
The internal composition of a tailor's ham is crucial to its function. The primary fillings are chosen for their ability to withstand high heat, absorb moisture, and provide a dense, firm surface.
- Sawdust: This is a traditional and highly effective filling.
- Density: Sawdust packs very tightly, creating a robust and firm surface that doesn't yield under pressure, ideal for sharp creases and shaping.
- Heat Retention: It holds heat remarkably well, transferring it evenly to the fabric being pressed. This helps to set stitches and mold the fabric efficiently.
- Moisture Absorption: Sawdust can absorb steam, slowly releasing it back into the fabric, which aids in shaping and preventing scorching.
- Pieces of Scrap Fabric: Tightly packed fabric scraps offer an excellent alternative.
- Repurposing: An eco-friendly option, using leftover fabric pieces minimizes waste.
- Density: When packed very firmly, scrap fabric provides sufficient density and firmness for effective pressing. The tighter the packing, the better the results.
- Heat Retention: Like sawdust, densely packed fabric retains heat, allowing for proper shaping and seam setting.
Why the Filling Matters
The choice and quality of the filling directly impact the tailor's ham's performance:
- Effective Shaping: A firm, unyielding core allows fabric to be molded over its curves without flattening, preserving the garment's intended three-dimensional form.
- Superior Heat Transfer: Good heat retention ensures that the fabric is consistently warmed, making it more pliable and receptive to shaping.
- Steam Management: The ability to absorb and slowly release steam is vital for setting fabrics and preventing shine or scorching, especially on delicate materials.
Benefits of Using a Tailor's Ham
Incorporating a tailor's ham into your pressing routine offers numerous advantages for achieving professional results:
- Curved Seams: Perfect for pressing open or to one side on curved areas like princess seams, armholes, and necklines.
- Darts: Helps to perfectly shape bust darts, waist darts, and other garment shaping elements.
- Collars and Cuffs: Provides the necessary curve for pressing crisp, well-formed collars and cuffs.
- Sleeve Caps: Essential for easing and shaping the top of a sleeve to fit smoothly into an armhole.
- Preventing Shine: The firm, often felt-covered surface helps prevent direct iron-to-fabric contact, reducing the risk of shine on certain fabrics.
Comparing Filling Types
Here's a quick look at the characteristics of common tailor's ham fillings:
| Filling Type | Key Characteristics | Best For | Considerations |
|---|---|---|---|
| Sawdust | Superior density, excellent heat retention, very firm. | Professional garment construction, heavy use | Heavier, specific sawdust types recommended (e.g., hardwood) |
| Scrap Fabric | Dense (when packed tightly), good heat retention, lightweight (can be) | Home sewers, DIY projects, eco-friendly | Must be packed extremely tightly for optimal firmness |
For those interested in making their own, comprehensive guides on filling and constructing a tailor's ham can be found on reputable sewing blogs and craft sites like The Spruce Crafts or Threads Magazine.
